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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.